Instruments

Straubinger Phoenix Pads

Many of you know that the Straubinger family is responsible for making some of the very best flutes on the planet. David and Joel Straubinger’s flutes represent the very highest in handcrafted quality, attention to detail, and top-of-the-line materials. Many professional flutes, including several brands carried at the Indy Flute Shop, feature Straubinger pads. These pads, rather than the traditional felt pad, are made of many fine layers of material that make for the utmost in quality, tone control, and precision sealing. And they are made right here in Indianapolis! What many of you may not know, however, is that David and Joel Straubinger’s shop burnt nearly to the ground in November 2008. At the time, they had been working on a prototype pad for an intermediate student flute. Among the ashes, this prototype was found, and the Straubinger Phoenix pad was born, rising from the ashes of the devastating fire. Ideal for use on production step-up flutes, the outer felt covering wraps around the outer rim of the pad instead of stopping at the pad’s edge. The traditional Straubinger design is flipped in a way, making for greater durability in the area where the pad touches the tone hole.

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Altus Limited Edition

Every once in a while, I have the opportunity to purchase a unique instrument for the shop. When I saw the incredible attention to detail and design on these Altus Limited Edition flutes, I just knew I had to get one for the Indy Flute Shop! Not only does this flute feature a gorgeous hand-engraved lip plate, but engraving is also done on the individual keys! The L907 Limited Edition Altus flute comes standard with a .958 Brittania silver headjoint and a silver plated body and foot. Enjoy these beautiful pictures!  

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How do I send my instrument in for repair?

If you are renting or have purchased an instrument from the Indy Flute Shop, you want to be sure to have it serviced at least every year. Thankfully, this is a very easy process. Here’s what you need to do: 1. Call Erin at 317-813-2044 to let us know that your instrument needs service. We’ll arrange for a loaner to be sent to your school so your student isn’t without an instrument for class. **Keep this in mind: our standard rental pool at Paige’s Music consists of more basic, student level instruments. We have a small pool of higher quality, open-hole loaners available, but these go quickly. If you have an upcoming performance or solo and need a more comparable instrument, please do not hesitate to let Erin know–she can nearly always make arrangements for a similar instrument to be sent out. 2. Our District Manager will bring the loaner with him on his next visit to your school. He will also pick up your instrument and bring it back to the store for servicing. Most of the time your instrument will be returned to you the following week. You can also choose to drop off the instrument at the

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Headjoint cork

A common complaint when a flute or piccolo comes in for repair is that “it is just not playing like it used to” or that “it sounds airy”. The first thing we check is the position and the fit of the head joint cork assembly. If it’s not in the right place, or if it’s too loose, the intonation and tone quality of the instrument will be affected. Proper placement of the head joint cork assembly is crucial. Use the following steps to check the placement of your cork assembly. On the end of your cleaning rod, you will notice a line. This is actually a measuring tool to check the placement of your cork assembly. Place that end of the cleaning rod into the open end of your head joint until it makes contact with the head cork plate. rod-open-end. Look into the embouchure hole (blow hole) and locate the line on your cleaning rod. It should be in the center of the embouchure hole. rod-hole. If the mark is down toward the open end of the head joint, you should tighten the head crown to pull the cork assembly back up the tube. If the line is too

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Flute appraisals

We often get asked if we do appraisals on instruments here at the flute shop and Paige’s Music. The short answer is no, we do not have a certified appraiser on staff. HOWEVER, many times an official appraisal is not needed to determine the replacement value of your instrument. Read on to find out more. Popular Brands and Models The closest unofficial appraisal we can do is on a brand and model that we currently carry. We would ask that you either bring the instrument to our store or send it in with one of our District Managers on their weekly visit. We would then have our repair staff evaluate what kind of repairs it would need (if any) and then we could tell you what we would sell that instrument for if it were part of our inventory. This process would give you a market value of what the asking price might be for your instrument if you were to try and sell it on your own. Brands and Models We Don’t Carry If your instrument isn’t a brand and model that we carry, then we could still have our repair shop evaluate it for repairs, which is always

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Baby, it’s cold outside!

Brr! If you’re reading this from anywhere in the Midwest, I sure hope you’re somewhere warm–the mercury is dropping as we speak! I thought this would be a pertinent time to talk about how to care for your instrument during the cold months. By following just a few simple rules of thumb, you can avoid any winter snafus with your flute or piccolo. “If you’re uncomfortable, your instrument is uncomfortable.” I have heard my colleagues in Encore strings say this many times, and it definitely holds true for woodwind players as well. Just as hot or wet weather can wreak havoc on wood, metal, and pads, the same is true for cold weather. As the temperature drops, the metal tube of flutes contracts, then expands when it is warmed up again, either by going inside or being played. This process happening repeatedly can cause alignment and adjustment issues, as well as cause the pads to begin to shrink and leak. Indoor environments are also very dry while the heat is running during the winter months. This is especially concerning for wood piccolos. Make sure that you have some sort of humidifier or are at least checking the instrument every few

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Glissando headjoint

Happy New Year, everyone!! I’m looking forward to some really exciting things happening in 2016. I will be heading to the NAMM show out in Anaheim, CA in just a couple weeks to check out what is new in the music and flute world, so stay tuned for more about that! In the meantime, though, here’s something really cool… Robert Dick is a modern flutist who is revolutionizing contemporary music for the instrument. When thinking about extended techniques that are not readily accessible on the flute, Dick began experimenting with creating something like a “whammy bar” on the headjoint. What resulted was the Glissando headjoint. As described on the product’s website, it is a telescoping headjoint, with a high performance contemporary cut headjoint sliding inside a carrier tube. Two “wings” extend from the lip plate and comfortably embrace the flutist’s cheeks. Moving the flute to the right slides the headjoint from its “home position” (all the way in) and extends the length of the flute. A downward glissando can be made from every note! Contemporary players have generally had to work around the limitations of the flute–there is only so much that a pitch can be “bent” or altered by

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Silver and gold–and lots more!

As many of you have probably realized now, shopping for a new flute can be a very customized experience–so many features to choose from! Well, adding to that list of ways to change up your flute experience is a plethora of different materials from which your instrument can be constructed! Read on to discover some materials that you may not have even considered for your next flute… Silver Silver, of course, is the most common material from which flutes are constructed. Instruments at the intermediate level or above will feature, at the very least, a solid silver headjoint. This naming, however, can be a bit deceptive, as flutes that are made of 100% silver are very uncommon. Most of the time, a designation of “solid silver” means that the composition of the tube is 92.5% silver, with the rest being more durable alloys. Often, this will be identified with a stamp that reads 0.925 silver or something similar. This is also commonly referred to as sterling silver. Flutes in the intermediate range almost always are made of this silver composition, either in the headjoint or the entire tube. An alternative to this is Britannia silver, which is 95.8% pure silver.

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Flute swabs

One question that I get asked by customers frequently is “What should I be using to clean my instrument after playing?” It goes without saying that proper care of your instrument starts with, at the very least, cleaning out the moisture that accrues inside the instrument while it is being played. I wanted to address some common facts and myths about swabbing out a flute and discuss the best materials to use to do so. I often joke with customers that I am not a very good salesperson when it comes to inside swabbing materials. Many people come in looking for what they assume is a special material to use, and I usually send them on their way empty handed–but with good reason. In my experience, there is no better flute cleaner (keep in mind, we are talking about the inside of the instrument, not the outside silver finish) than a handkerchief-sized piece of plain white cotton from your rag pile at home–provided it is free of dyes or chemicals. For most people this includes something like a piece cut out of an old men’s undershirt or something similar. Cotton is both absorbent and gentle on the inside of the

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Brand spotlight: Yamaha

This month’s brand spotlight coincides with some exciting things that are happening here at Paige’s Music for the last few months of the year. Yamaha intermediate instruments are our most popular step-up instrument store-wide, and with very good reason–read on to find out why. The exciting news is that now through the end of the year, we are offering a $50 or a $100 rebate (depending on the level of the step-up instrument) for any Yamaha intermediate instrument, flutes included! DID YOU KNOW? -Torakusu Yamaha, the founder of what is now the Yamaha Corporation, started his business by building his first reed organ in 1887. The company was officially established 10 years later. -Yamaha founded its own music school in 1954. -Yamaha Wind Instruments were not manufactured until 1965, 65 years after the production of the first Yamaha pianos. -The first Yamaha flute was introduced in 1970. Their exclusive handmade series flutes came about in 2011. For a cool graphic timeline, check this link out: http://www.yamaha.com/about_yamaha/corporate/product_history/index.html Yamaha flutes and piccolos are known for their exceptional durability, accessible tone that is powerful and not too bright or too dark, and wonderful features for the price of the instrument. Yamaha intermediate flutes

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Brand spotlight: Pearl flutes

This week, I wanted to highlight a brand that many people have heard of, but not necessarily in the context of flutes: Pearl! “But wait, doesn’t Pearl make drums?” is a question that I hear so often when people come into the shop–and the answer is yes! Pearl is very well-known for their fantastic percussion sets and drum kits, but they also make a wide range of wonderful flutes as well! Pearl Musical Instrument Company was founded in 1946, and the company began making flutes in Chiba, Japan in 1968. Their instruments range from high-quality student flutes, which feature a solid silver lip plate riser. This feature differentiates them from most student flutes which are fully plated, to handmade professional instruments in a range of high level materials such as 18k gold and platinum. Pearl flutes are also set apart from many other manufacturers in that their mechanisms are pinless. This setup is unique because instead of the tiny pins that hold together the crucial pieces of many flutes–which can snag and catch–the rods and tenons are instead held together by a series of small screws. This both affects the durability of the instrument and creates a smooth, highly effective

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Pad Savers: facts and myths

Of all of plethora of accessories available to fine flute players, there are few that produce such confusion and mystery as one: the Pad Saver. Okay, maybe I’m exaggerating a bit, but I do come across students who are not sure how to use this accessory properly, at the risk of damaging their instrument, so I thought I would spend some time explaining the proper function of it. A Pad Saver is self-described as a “de-moisturizing swab.” It is a piece of semi-flexible plastic that is covered with fibers that absorb water from the inside of the instrument. Pad Savers are probably the most popular cleaning accessory for saxophones, and they are certainly useful for flutes as well, as long as they are used properly. A common misconception that students have is that it should be used as the primary cleaning material for their instrument. They can certainly be used to clean out the moisture that accrues during practicing, but the real problem lies in its storage–unknowing students swab out their instrument, and then–since it fits perfectly in the body of the instrument–stick it right back in the instrument and put it in its case. This is actually more harmful

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Soldered tone holes

Good morning! Tomorrow I am embarking on a very exciting trip to Washington, D.C. for the annual National Flute Association convention! Last year’s convention was my first time attending, and I am SO excited to see what this year brings! Be sure to check the IFS Facebook page for pictures and updates! In the meantime, I wanted to talk about a professional-level feature that is a mystery to many players: soldered tone holes. To begin, the term “tone hole” refers to the holes in the tube of the instrument, upon which the keys sit when they are installed on the flute. Soldered tone holes, in the simplest sense, are usually included only on high-end instruments for one main reason: they add many hands-on hours to the instrument. Standard student up to semi-professional flutes use drawn tone holes, which involves a machine punching out holes upon which the keys will seal down the tube of the instrument. A steel ball is then drawn through the tube of the instrument, pulling it up and out to create the hole. These machines are very precise, especially on higher end instruments, so they are acceptable for the majority of players. Flutists who demand a

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Key plugs

Boy, it seems like summer is getting shorter and shorter, doesn’t it? Here at Paige’s Music and the Indy Flute Shop, we are in full swing with back-to-school time, preparing students for beginning or continuing band. It’s such an exciting time for everyone! This week, I wanted to take some time to explain the purpose of an open-holed flute and the function of the plugs that come with the instrument. Most beginning level flutes are closed-hole, or plateau keyed, instruments. I’ve written about this before, but the basic premise is that all the student has to do to seal the key is to depress it down, no matter where the finger is placed. Some beginning-level instruments, however, do come with open-holed keys, which makes for a unique learning experience for the beginning student. These keys do tend to cultivate better hand position from the beginning, since the student has to pay more attention to where the fingers are placed, but it can still be a challenge, especially for those with small hands. This is where plugs can be quite helpful. All beginning open-holed flutes should come with a set of plugs, which are usually a silicone material. These plugs fit

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Tarnish troubles

“My flute just isn’t as shiny as it used to be!!” We all know how frustrating it is to see our meticulously-maintained instruments starting to develop discoloration, especially in those pesky hard to reach places. This week, I wanted to talk a little bit about things that can be done to help put the brakes on this issue. Unfortunately, the development of tarnish, which is a chemical reaction that occurs on silver or even silver-plated items, is an inevitable reality for flute players. Exposure to the air, materials in a case, and contact with the skin all cause gradual discoloration of the metal. Small things such as the glue used to hold a case together can even cause this to occur. The good news is there are things that can be done to help slow this chemical reaction. Here are some helpful hints: 1. The most important thing you can do to take care of the finish of your instrument is to clean it after every playing session. You’ve already heard me talk about how important it is to clean the inside–the outside is just as important to keep it shiny and less prone to tarnishing. Your hands, even if

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Brand spotlight: Haynes & Amadeus

For our next focus on brands that are sold here in the Indy Flute Shop, we are going to take a look at famed American flute company, William S. Haynes and Co. Haynes is one of the oldest flute-making companies in the world, and their workshop has been based in Boston since the 1880s. The Haynes company has a rich history of fine instrument making for over 125 years, establishing their business by making a copy of a wood flute at the request of a member of the Boston Symphony. Brothers William S. and George Haynes made these wood flutes by hand themselves for the first 10 or so years of the business, as well as a solid gold flute with silver keys. By 1912, they grew to the point of needing a separate showroom and factory, which were both based in the heart of Boston. In 1913, William patented a new method of drawing toneholes that revolutionized their flutes and the way they responded; these methods are still used in all handmade Haynes flutes today. By the 1940s, silver flutes had outpaced wooden flutes in popularity, but silver became scarce during World War II. The Haynes company responded by

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Lip plate/riser options

In the spirit of talking about the plethora of different options that are available for flutes, I am focusing this week on options that are available to customize your lip plate and/or riser. There are many things that can be added to this part of the flute, often for a reasonable cost, since the surface area is relatively small compared to the entire headjoint or body of the flute. One of the most common options that is often found on intermediate flutes is a gold-plated lip plate. This adds some color variety to the headjoint, but does not change the sound quality of the instrument, since it is just a layer of plating, as opposed to a solid material. However, this can be useful for players who have a silver sensitivity, as the gold replaces the silver resting against the bottom lip. Yamaha intermediate series flutes come with this option standard, and many other brands offer this option for little to no extra cost. On the other hand, adding solid gold (or other options such as rose gold) to the entire lip plate will change the quality of the sound, and of course will add an additional cost (which varies

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Split E mechanisms

One thing I have learned since coming to work at the Indy Flute Shop just over two years ago is this: there are a mind-blowing number of options available to customize your flute to your needs! Silver content, lip plate shapes and materials, silver mechanisms, engravings, key features–you name it, somebody has requested it! This can make shopping for a new flute both exciting and perhaps just a little bit terrifying. Over the next few weeks, I’m going to be highlighting some of the most popular features of flutes that are available here in the shop. This week, we’ll be discussing the split E mechanism. The split E mechanism is a feature that is available on several step-up (intermediate) level flutes, as well as most higher-end instruments. This key option uses an additional rod and lever, permitting the lower G key to close when high E is played. Closing the lower G key and fingering high E decreases venting and brings more stability to the note with a faster response and without the “cracking” effect that many players struggle with, especially when leaping up into the higher register from the middle. This feature is very convenient and easy to transition

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Wood flutes

How many of you have played a wooden flute? There are many different varieties out there, from traditional Native American instruments to pan flutes to fife-like instruments, but the ones I want to talk about today are the traditional, C-scale flute that we generally think of, only made entirely of grenadilla (or similar) wood! Wooden flutes have become more popular in the United States over the past ten or so years, as players have been looking for different modifications to make their sound a bit more unique. Many brands offer wooden headjoints that can be placed on a metal body for a different sound without the investment of purchasing an entire wood instrument. Most wood flutes are made of grenadilla wood, the same type of wood from which piccolos and clarinets are made. This becomes rather expensive when talking about an entire instrument, as a large piece of this wood must be cut and constructed from the best quality materials. Because of the tone quality of wood versus metal instruments and the thicker wall of the instrument, wooden flutes are generally much more resistant and require a greater amount of air to produce a similar sound. The sound on a

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Summer Time Maintenance

Hello, all! It’s great to be back from the Big Easy. Thanks to Jeremy, our Retail Sales director, for his wonderful musings on summer time playing last week. I wanted to elaborate on that subject some and give some tips on summertime repair and maintenance—especially prudent for those of you who are about to start summer marching programs! Woodwind instruments, including flutes, are very sensitive to temperature and moisture changes, and these should be avoided whenever possible. Take care not to leave your instrument in a hot car or any other area will the temperature will reach much beyond a comfortable room temperature. Wood and plastic piccolos are especially important to keep from temperature extremes, as they can crack and become unplayable. Moisture extremes are also very important to avoid, as high humidity levels can damage the body of the instrument, causing the metal to swell and shrink. The pads of the instrument are the most susceptible part of the instrument when it comes to moisture; anything from failing to properly swab out your flute after playing to humid indoor environments to (yikes!) marching in the rain can cause the pads to swell, retain moisture, and ultimately fail. Marchers—never fear!

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